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    Nonlinear phase-resolved ocean wave simulation with ensemble Kalman filter

    Sijie Wang and Linfeng Zhang

    Zeng Liu* and Jianglong Sun

    Xiaoyan Yang

    Guangyao Wang

    • Centre for Regional Oceans & Department of Ocean Science and Technology, Faculty of Science and Technology, University of Macau, Macau, China and Zhuhai UM Science & Technology Research Institute, Zhuhai, China

    • *Contact author: z_liu@hust.edu.cn

    Phys. Rev. Fluids 10, 114901 – Published 5 November, 2025

    DOI: https://doi.org/10.1103/n6gk-x3xc

    Abstract

    Phase-resolved ocean wave models have recently garnered significant attention in wave forecasting, as they capture the phase information of each wave component, enabling the prediction of three-dimensional surface elevation distributions within a defined sea area. However, wave fields input into phase-resolved models often deviate from actual wave fields due to limitations in wave surface measurement and reconstruction processes. Moreover, wave evolution is a complex dynamical process influenced by multiple factors, such as wind, currents, and topography, which are challenging to accurately simulate in phase-resolved wave models. To mitigate the impact of wave field disturbances and enhance prediction performance for strongly nonlinear ocean waves, we propose a coupled approach that integrates observations into wave simulations by combining the pseudospectral Fourier-Legendre method with the ensemble Kalman filter. We first establish and validate an assimilation framework applicable to strongly nonlinear phase-resolved wave simulations. Next, we optimize the assimilation parameters for both two- and three-dimensional regular and irregular waves, revealing that optimal parameters for irregular waves can be inferred from those of regular waves. Using these optimal parameters, we analyze the assimilation performance for waves with varying nonlinearity and disturbances. The results demonstrate that the coupled simulation approach delivers accurate surface elevation predictions, with errors consistently decreasing over time, even in highly nonlinear wave scenarios.

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